Hummingbird feeder review

Hummingbird feeder review

   Over the year's I've tried a number of hummingbird feeders, in an attempt to attract hummingbirds. They are one of nature's pollinators, consume insects in addition to nectar, build their nest out of spider webs and can fly in any direction. To me they are just plain pleasing to watch and have around.

    To my dismay in the last couple of years an intruder has showed up called the oriole. This bird although beautifully colored in black and orange colors, has turned out to be more of a pest than anything else. They eat my grapes and other fruit, harassed my hummingbirds and steal nectar out of my hummingbird feeders and just plain make a mess. Originally I tried appeasing these intruders by giving them their own feeders with grape jelly. This worked the first year when I only had one or two Orioles hanging around. They left my grapes alone and I didn't mind feeding them. But this last year the feeder has done nothing more than attract dozens more Orioles and they are no longer satisfied with just the grape jelly. These birds are quite intelligent and have learned various ways of getting nectar out of the hummingbird feeders.

Perky-Pet 122TF Aster Top Fill Push-Pull 12-ounce Plastic Hummingbird Feeder

 One of my first hummingbird feeders was this hummingbird feeder above. I liked the elegant design and the idea of filling it from the top. Unfortunately, it was also one of the first hummingbird feeders that I got rid of. If you didn't have the feeder put together just right the nectar just simply drained out. I found it to be hard to put together or take apart for filling or cleaning. I liked the perches on the flowers but quickly found that the Orioles liked them too because then they could rock it back and forth to spill nectar.
The next hummingbird feeder I tried, I liked a lot. This is a First Nature 3091 16-Ounce Hummingbird Flower Feeder I found this hummingbird feeder to be easy to clean, and easy to fill. But once again I found the Orioles liked it as well. They would rock the feeder back and forth and spill nectar everywhere. But because I liked this simple design so much, I still use this feeder when the Orioles are not around.

old version of perky pet hummingbird feeder

So this next one is an old version of one of the Perky Pet designs. I do not believe they make this model anymore and the new one is all plastic instead of glass and plastic. The first problem I had with this one was the glass bottle threads stripped out and it wouldn't stay together. I liked the glass design for better sanitation, but the design might do better with a metal bottom rather than the plastic. The bee guards also helped keep bees out of the feeder, but the Orioles quickly learned to pull these off and I had to put screws into the feeder to keep them from doing this. I do not know much about the new all plastic design but once again the Orioles like to swing the feeder back and forth to get nectar out. Hummingbird feeders without a perch would probably make a better feeder.
    This next design is better than most.

First Nature Hummingbird Feeder, 16 oz

This is a First Nature Hummingbird Feeder, 16 oz that uses slots instead of holes. It is easy to take apart and put back together for cleaning and a largemouth for ease of filling.
I thought the slots might be a deterrent to the Orioles but again to my dismay the Orioles were still able to get nectar out of the feeder.

Blue Bunting 28-oz Glass Hummingbird Feeder.

   This last feeder on the right is the best feeder I have found thus far. It is a Blue Bunting 28-oz Glass Hummingbird Feeder. I like the large capacity glass jar which means I only have to fill it once in a great while. I'm not sure about the glass threading with the plastic as yet, but so far it has worked quite well and I think it will last quite a while as long as I take care not to over tighten the threads. The most impressive feature of this whole design though is the flowers themselves. The flowers are fashioned after trumpet vine flowers and have a fairly deep throat that the Orioles cannot reach the bottom of with their short tongues. The feeder is heavy enough that the Orioles can't rock the feeder back and forth. And the feeders are spaced far enough apart that an oriole cannot sit on one feeder and try to feed from another. The flower perches are too short for the Orioles to use, and I find it quite amusing to watch them try to put their head between their legs in order to try and feed out of the feeder. I don't know if Blue Bunting intentionally designed the feeder so Orioles and other birds could not feed out of it, but I like it a lot. So if your having problems with Orioles and you are not able to find the Blue Buntinghummingbird feeder, try any hummingbird feeder that doesn't use a perch.

Using solar light stakes as drip risers.

 Solar light stakes double as drip irrigation risers. 

Did you notice that drip risers look a lot like solar light stakes? So the next time you buy a solar light or get ready to throw out a solar light that doesn't work, think again. Convert solar light stakes to double as drip irrigation risers. All you need is a 1/4-inch drill bit and drill to make your solar light double as a drip riser.

Using your quarter-inch drill bit(or Dremel bit) drill a hole through both sides of the solar light stake. Be sure to drill your hole below the diffuser so if the solar light stops working it can be removed or replaced.Thread your 1/4-inch drip tubing through the light stake and then attach your drip emitter as you normally would. As shown in the photo below.

And there you have it, an upscale, upcycled, recycled solar light stake.You save a couple of bucks and help save the environment. For a little more detail on how to do this project and an extra idea or two watch the following video.

Ideas for starting your garden seeds

Seedling trays and starting gardens indoors

A big part of the cost for starting a garden is buying seeds and seedlings to put in your garden. And a big part of that cost is buying the start trays and mini greenhouses that only seem to last one year. Here is a video with a few ideas to save you money.

natural fertilizers versus store-bought

Natural organic fertilizers versus store-bought

I use to be one of those people that bought their fertilizer ( manure) at the store. I believe like everybody else, that store-bought fertilizer didn't have any weeds. Not once did I stop to think, that it did not matter. The wind, birds and other animals do a very good job of spreading seeds. After a year of not using any fertilizer, I noticed that I did not get any better results. I still got weeds in my garden and it did not produce any more or any less than when I fertilized with store-bought fertilizer.
    This last year I finally took my father's advice and used real manure from a farm. As you can see from the photo above, my father produced a bumper crop of over-sized banana squash.What was interesting, is that I got similar results , and just as many weeds. I do not know what they put in store-bought fertilizers but as far as I'm concerned they're worth next to nothing. I will never buy store-bought fertilizer ever again. Cow manure seems to work the best. I tried chicken manure and it seemed to burn anything I put it on, no matter how small an amount I used. I am trying the chicken manure on my compost in hopes of reducing how hot the manure seems to be. Worm castings works really good but is expensive if you have a large garden like mine. Raising your own worms would probably be cheaper. Rabbit manure also works very good and if you put your worm beds under the rabbit pens you get two for the price of one.
    The true test of a healthy soil is simple, pick it up in your hands and smell it. It should feel good and natural and have a nice smell to it. If it smells like chemicals you can bet there are no organisms alive in the soil and it is pretty much dead. The problem with chemical-based fertilizers is that it does not stay in the soil. It ends up in the plants you grow and in the water you drink. It kills the good bacteria and organisms as well as the bad. We need to stop buying into the illusions and lies of chemical companies and corporations that only want to make money at any cost.

DIY solar lighted stepping stones

How to make solar lighted stepping stones.

[note:  The glass used in this project is not safety glass and can break under certain conditions. If rocks or other objects strike the glass with sufficient force it is possible for the glass to break creating sharp edges and unsafe conditions. The author of this blog is not responsible for misuse or persons not taking do care and it's information is intended for conceptual purposes only. A plexiglass version is described at the end of this blog if you are concerned about glass breakage]

To make your mold  cut off the bottom of a 5 gallon plastic bucket. (note: do not throw away the upper half as it can be used to be used to protect plants and other things, but that is for another blog.) Using a ruler or tri-square cut 3 inches off the bottom of the bucket. This should give you a mold that is 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches deep. Steppingstones need to be at least 2 inches thick in order to support your weight. Be sure and spray a mold release such as vegetable oil on the inside of your mold.(note; do not spray the glass jar as you want the cement stick to the jar. you may even want to sand the outside edges to make the cement stick better, but do not sand the bottom.) Be sure and select jars that are wide-mouth and large enough and deep enough to fit your solar light inside of before you pour the cement.

 Once your cement is poured (mortar mix works best - NO ROCKS ) be sure and tap the edges to remove air bubbles. Wipe any cement sticking to the edges of the lid, as you'll want to remove the lid later. Let your cement set overnight to cure and your stones should be easily removed from the mold. Be sure and take care as the cement will not be completely cured as yet and the stones are still fragile. If it does not easily remove from the mold, then allow the cement to cure a little longer. Once they are out of the mold set them in a tub of water or keep damp inside a plastic bag for at least 5 to 6 days to finish curing. The slower cement cures (dries), the stronger the cement.

I used these glass ball solar lights. The LED is mounted on top of the solar cell, which makes them perfect for this project. Using gloves, safety glasses and a screwdriver I carefully pry off the glass ball. Work the screwdriver down the edges loosening any glue and then twisting the screwdriver to pry the glass ball loose. Discard or save for another project the glass ball and tube stand.

                                         Remove your lid from the glass jar. Using a Styrofoam ball I cut off the bottom of the ball to create a flat surface and cut a hole in the center of the ball to mount the solar light in. (Any piece of Styrofoam will work as long as it holds the solar light up right.) I used a low temp hot glue gun as I wanted to be able to remove the solar light if I needed to make repairs. I glue the flat bottom to the inside of the jar lid and tack the solar light to the Styrofoam ball to hold it in place while it is being assembled.            

Once you have your stone assembled, you are ready to set the stone in the ground. Select a site that is free of rocks and other debris. Rocks and other debris could score the glass causing it to break or cause uneven pressure on the stone itself and break the steppingstone. Digg a depression large enough for the stone itself (about a 1/2 inch deep) and a small depression slightly smaller than the diameter of the jar and slightly deeper than the depth of your jar in the center to accommodate the glass jar. Be sure and do not set the stone too deep as you do not want the stone to become buried. Move the stone around slightly and tamp the soil firmly making sure the stone is set firmly and does not rock back and forth. Uneven pressure on the stone could cause it to break, so it is very important that the stone is set firmly before you put your full weight on the stone.

So there you have it, solar lighted steppingstones to light your path or just add accent to your garden or landscaping.

***********************

If solar lights are not your thing or you just want to add color to your stones then a low voltage system may be what you want. The diagram below shows how you might use wine bottles cut in half to make your lighted stepping stones.

You could also use a light set like this and clear bottles to get colored lights. ( note: make sure lights are rated for being buried or exposed to moisture ) or you could paint transparent paint,, nail polish or colored marker on your solar LED.

All in all each solar steppingstone costs about $2-$3 to make as opposed to buying a similar solar lighted stone costing $50 or more. 

     In addition, you could make one using 1/4 inch plexiglass and PVC pipe if you're concerned about glass breakage and still not cost more than five dollars each. Simply cut circles out of your plexiglass the same diameter as the pipe being used. Use a threaded pipe cap on one end and glue your plexiglass circle on the other end.

Drip systems home made DIY.

Homemade drip emitters / systems

The four plex emitter connector on the left is a commercial connector that is usually fairly expensive.

The multiplex emitter connector on the right is my homemade version. It is made from a flexible riser and PVC cap and regular drip connectors. The advantage is that I can connect as many connectors as I need and replace them if they get broke. The cost is usually much less than that of what a commercial four plex is. I drill 1/8 inch holes or the same diameter as the connector shaft. Then using pliers force the connector into the hole.

Sensitive plant, conversation piece for the house.

A houseplant everyone will talk about.

common name: Sensitive plant

scientific name: Mimosa pudica

  This one was grown from seed and is about three to four weeks old. Some garden shops do carry the seed but the easiest way is to simply Google it and order it online. Once they have been touched they take a couple hours to recover. They are one of the more unusual conversation pieces that I have in my home. And if nothing else, a good way to keep the kids occupied for a few minutes.